From Cancas to the Laguna Parón – 10 days – 23 metres above sea level

Version française disponible ici.

Crossing this border next to the Pacific coast was fast and quite simple. The organisation is well-proven, the desk of Ecuador and Peruvian migrations are face to face and in the same room. Once we got our visas, we needed to go to the customs desk which is in the same building, to import the vehicles. 

The SOAT, insurance which allows riding in Ecuador, is the document which will take the most of our time. In spite of the desk being in the same building, we didn’t have any Soles (Peruvian currency) in our wallets to pay the insurance. The only bank at the border being out of service, we went to Tumbes (25kms away) to get our first Peruvian coins before to go back to the border to get the SOAT. 

Then, we went back on the road towards South, next to the Cancas city where Cio and Beto were expecting us. We went alongside the Pacific Ocean at the dusk, and enjoyed to see the endless blue of the ocean. 

During three days, we have enjoyed daily to have sandy foots and to watch the horizon.  We enjoyed some tasty Ceviche and Tiradito in the restaurant of our hosts and fully enjoyed the idyllic surroundings to recharge our batteries. 

As everything comes to an end, to be able to enjoy the next unforgettable moments, we went back on the Pan-american Highway to go down towards South. Our stops allowed us to discover the secrets of the Pre-Inca by visiting the tomb of the Lord of Sipan in Layambeque and the Chan-Chan city in Trujillo.

After this, we arrived in Huanchaco. Here, the waves hit powerfully and daily the pier. The spot is famous for the local surfers but also by many backpackers coming to test the reputation of this Peruvian wave. 

Besides the surf and the waves, we will remember this stop for an improvised pizza night when we shared tips, good deals and good addresses with five other couples travelling South of America, from North to South or South to North. 

After a nice evening with the gentle sound of the waves lapping the shore, we are heading to the mountains and the National Park of Huscaran.

To go there, after a stop in the city of Santa with nothing exciting, we are using a small road in a canyon to reach Caraz. The turns are one after another one, the landscape is beautiful and worths largely the stressing moments on this narrow road when a truck is coming on the other way. At the end of the tunnels, Caraz city is welcoming us. We will spend two days there to change the oil of the sidecars after 5000kms done. 

Once the sidecars ready, we are heading to the Laguna Parón. This natural lake with a turquoise colour will show up only after an ascent of 34 kilometres on a rocky path with uncountable curves. We will spend three hours to reach the summit. 

But again, what a show! We will spend  the night on our own, in front of this beautiful lake. The next day, before to go down, we did a nice hike alongside the lagoon, before to fall in love with the blue-turquoise colour and to dive in this water at 6 degrees (estimation did on the last bathings in Brittany). 

Once warmed up, the descent towards the civilization will be done with the engine switch off to continue the adventure towards South. 


Where to eat ?

Majariscos Canoas de Punta Sal
Carretera Panamerica Norte 1196, Canoas

With sandy feet, looking the horizon, a sunset over the Pacific Ocean in the background ; the Majariscos restaurant offers idyllic surroundings to enjoy the best Ceviche of the area (and maybe of all the country!).

Where to sleep ?

Casa de Amelia
Avenida Victor Larco Herrera 1150, Huanchaco

The travel and the encounters are keys in the project of the Casa de Amélia. A small hostel by the sea in the town centre of Huanchaco. This friendly hostel without pretension has three small rooms and welcomes vans of travelers. The conviviality is key in the outside shared areas including the living room, the kitchen, and the wood fired pizza oven.